Srinagar and the Kashmir valley: a first visit
Destinations · · 2 min read
Srinagar is built around water, and the valley around it changes character completely with the season. Deciding when to go is most of the planning.
When
- April to May: blossom, then tulips, then everything green. Comfortable days.
- June to August: the escape from the Indian summer; busiest and dearest.
- September to October: chinar leaves turning, clear air, fewer people. The best compromise.
- December to February: snow, frozen mornings, Gulmarg skiing, and some roads closed.
Where to sleep
A houseboat on Dal or Nigeen is the classic. Nigeen is quieter. The rooms are wood-panelled and handsome, the plumbing varies, and breakfast on the deck is the point. A night or two is plenty; the rest of the trip is easier from a hotel in town.
What to do
A shikara at dawn, when the floating vegetable market is trading and the lake is glass, is worth setting an alarm for. Later in the day it is a queue of boats.
The Mughal gardens - Nishat and Shalimar - are best in the late afternoon. Hazratbal and the old city's wooden mosques deserve more time than most itineraries give them.
Day trips: Gulmarg for the gondola, Pahalgam for the valley walks, Sonamarg for the glacier road. Each is two to three hours each way; pick two, not three.
Practical notes
Check current travel advice before booking, and keep the plan flexible - roads and connectivity can change at short notice. Carry cash. Evenings are cold even in summer.
Five nights is a comfortable first visit: two on the water, three using Srinagar as a base.